M group power struggle update

We went out this morning to see how the M group chimpanzees are doing. The answer is that they’re doing fine. Almost business as usual… 

As for the past 10 months, there still is not a clear cut decision on who exactly is the Alpha male of the M group. Between the two main contenders - Alofu (33 yrs) and Primus (22 yrs) - we do lean more towards to Primus for having the best cards. However as it stands now it’s far from a rock solid appearance.

Primus sitting next to Tito with an oestrus female (background).

It seems that Alofu prefers the nr two 'out of the wind' position more, but only to use his influence cleverly when it matters. Doing so, he obtains access to certain privileges of the Alpha position such as females.

So how does that work?

Well, Alofu is aging and although a massive chimpanzee, he has less physical power and stamina than Primus. But being a former Alpha he turns out to be a master strategist. By ‘half way’ choosing the 2nd spot, he keeps himself out of the wind on a number of things, like confrontations.

Alofu looking up at noisy scene in the tree.

And well aware of how to influence the group members around him, he demands Alpha privileges when they matter to him. Primus knows Alofu is a force to be reckoned with and so does let it happen. But in contrast to that, it seems Primus mostly has the privilege with the ladies on heat.

So does this make Primus the Alpha male? Likely, but not certainly not definite. Does it make Alofu Alpha male? No, that is more unlikely. Is this interesting? Very!

Mt. Brutally Brilliant (2462 mt)

Generally, over a drink at the campfire the best ideas are born. And so we decided to make a plan to climb the majestic Mt Nkungwe. Towering over Greystoke Mahale camp, the highest peak in the Mahale mountain range, commands respect already by looking at it from the beach… Within a very short distance of the lake the mountain range quickly shoots up well into the 2200’s meters (6600’s ft), with Nkungwe topping with 2462 mts (7500 ft).

A great idea – and very well possible. However we wanted to try the round climb in one long day. That could possibly make a great activity to add to our repertoire right? Most trips cover the mountain in 2 or sometimes 3 days. But staying at a stunning camp like Greystoke, we reasoned that you would like to be back by dinner time if possible.

 So we planned our trip the 22nd of July. Together with our guide Hamza, two park representatives; Ernest and Raymond and hiking buddy Ian we decided to set off... Not realizing that you actually have to climb 3 peaks before you ascent to the highest 4th peak. And the third being almost as high as Nkungwe!

 

Knowing it would be long, we departed at 04.00 in the night, taking the boat to Bilenge where we started. Straight from the beach at Bilenge up the steep Mt. Pasagulu, I do remember Ian’s famous first words… “this is a brutal start isn’t it”…? Those words resonate until today.

As we climbed and climbed we crossed territories of wild chimpanzees. Loud screams were heard around us, still dark. As we kept going and going we passed Mt Mhensabantu after breakfast. Already completely challenged by the very, very steep slopes, we knew we had to take on the two biggest still.

Deep into the range, brilliant Mt. Humo showed us many different leopard and buffalo tracks. It’s so exciting to be so deep in the forested mountains. Close before summiting the 3rd peak, Hamza encountered 5 wild chimpanzees just before the summit. But man! Were we being taken by surprise of the effort you have to make to reach the top of these mountains.

Fantastic, but oh so steep. Blisters, cramp, tiredness; every bit of discomfort the range had in store for us. But no mountain comes easy. And no scenery or trip has been just so untouched – absolutely stunning.

Yet where we to climb the Nkungwe. The highest of them all. Nkungwe has the views – all the beaches, the lake and the horizon, mystically covered in a thick haze of smoke, heat and humidity. Before its forested slopes gives way to its barren peak filled with protea bush, red colobus monkeys jump from tree top to tree top as you make your way through the steep tracks. But once out the forest a new landscape is at your feet and a pleasantly cool wind refreshes the tired body. 

At the top, satisfied and stunned by the dramatic range, we realized we’re only halfway. Hiking back to Bilenge where the boat was waiting for us, was the next task. Though quicker then up, only close to 21.00 that evening was when we sat ourselves on the cushion of the boat. Oh man. 16 hours of uninterrupted climbing. Were we fantasizing about camp dinner now!! Really one of the best days in Mahale but I think we better skip planning at campfires for a while...

The ideal afternoon

A perfect afternoon activity at Greystoke is the hike to a small but lovely waterfall. Remote and peaceful it really is a gem of a hike. 

At the moment the conditions are ideal, the water in the river bed is low but still sufficient and the rocks and boulders help us to find a nice way to climb up. 

Yes, it includes jumping from one rock to the other - and may involve some wet feet… - but generally the slope is gentle. 

As the rays of the afternoon sun shine through the forest canopy, colors are brilliant. Sounds of monkeys surround you. 

This really is such a cool walk! 

As you pass many pools and lots of small waterfalls, once you reach the end of the hike there is this beautifully crisp pool awaiting you. 

Away in the forest with no one else. 

I think I’ll go again tomorrow…

The grooming hand clasp

Chimpanzee communities in the Mahale Mountains NP may spend up to 23% (!) of their daytime hours grooming. The purpose of all this grooming is to remove parasites such as lice and ticks, as well as to strengthen social relationships between individuals. Not a unique position to Mahale Mountains NP but certainly not practiced in all other chimpanzee communities either, is the grooming hand clasp. 

An interesting position in which two chimpanzees groom each other simultaneously - both arms upheld in the air - clasping their hands together while they groom armpits or underarm parts.

As we observed these two chimpanzees taking all the time in the world to meticulously groom each other, they moved from a variety of grooming positions to the hand clasp and back. You can really see why it’s comfortable to groom and to be groomed.

There is some sort of peacefulness that falls upon you while seeing these apes do this.

A new stove…

Excitement is the right word! Excitement about our old AND our new stove. Where our old stove is a wood fired traditional beauty that gives us the greatest wood fired pizzas, it did have to make place for a new and modern version of stove.

But a great help that serviced us for the past 15 years you don’t just get rid off!

Ezekiel - our head chef – inspected the new oven together with his kitchen team member Mfaume from top to toe. And what a shiny new beauty that is!

All in all we decided to keep the traditional stove but at a different spot. Just to service us with those great creations. And the new stove … Yes, we have to learn it – by sampling I suppose!!

Ceasar & me…

Yesterday afternoon – excitement again! At around 17.15 hrs, a large group of chimpanzees visited camp. As the party moved in from the north, they split up into smaller numbers. Some of them moving into the ficus mologasa tree to eat, others moving a little further choosing different fruit bearing trees.

As I followed two chimpanzees that passed the office to the back of room number 5, I sat down on the forest floor. Right opposite of me - less than 4 meters away - is this magnificent chimpanzee called Ceasar. As I sat with Ceasar for about 10 minutes I can’t tell you what an experience this is.

Gee… do they move you.

Mirror, mirror on the wall…

Everybody knows the popular sentence of this enticing fairy tale. It was the first that came to our mind when we accidently witnessed this chimpanzee (Michio) looking into the mirror. I have to say he took mirror watching to a new level…

 As a big group of chimpanzees came rather unexpected through camp, hair clipping of our head chef was abruptly halted when Michio saw the mirror. Walking towards it he screamed when he saw himself – doubting who it was. As he came closer he inspected the mirror, pulled faces and kissed the mirror.

Puzzled as he still was, he put his left arm around the wall straight into the chefs room and felt behind the mirror to see if any chimpanzee was present. 

Lucky we were to have our camera on us!!

Another few looks in the mirror and Michio decided to do a more thorough inspection on the other side of the chefs room. Basically pulling apart the wall and sticking half his body through (!), he inspected another time. He then looked puzzled again, walked away for a couple of meters – and although not on picture – he carefully checked underneath the building to see if any chimpanzee feet were present!!

Absolutely one of the best and most hilarious moments we had with these great apes !