Greystoke grooming session

Yesterday morning. A lot of noise from the forest again. Actually, we heard it already in the distance during the night. And this time around it weren’t any school children...

It were the chimpanzees – and a a rather large group of them. 

As the sounds became louder throughout the morning, it was clear these apes were heading for Greystoke.

All guests had been out chimp tracking that morning and now enjoying a deserved rest in their rooms.

That this time around the chimpanzees would come right into camp and sit on the very pathways between the guest rooms nobody could have hoped for.

As the men groomed each other on the path, a beautiful lady stretched her legs on her back. A baby was observing us from the bush and another lady was sitting on a branch as if she was a human. Seriously,  encounters like this are striking.

This was as much an experience for us as well as our guests. So close, so much in common – it really is unbelievable.

All in all the groups counted 16 adults spread out over camp. I wonder why June is said to be for a more challenging time?

Conservation is all about grassroots…

A loud and enthusiastic noise was approaching from the forest yesterday afternoon. Not knowing what it exactly was, I asked Suzanne if she might be expecting someone.

A good minute later my question was answered. A fantastic group of kids from Kalilani Primary School (standard 3 – 7) had a day out excursion into Mahale Mountains national park. Accompanied by the Tanzanian National Park authorities, they were hiking through the forest to meet with our closest living relatives.

As they stopped by Greystoke Mahale and rested for a bit, we offered them to talk with one of our chimpanzee trackers for some good first hand stories. Loudly enthusiastic as they were, they went completely quiet as Sulemani – our Greystoke Tracker - spoke.

It's these enthusiastic kids that are literally at the base of the surrounding communities. And you know what?The level of interest that these youngsters showed is nothing else but real good news for the conservation of these great apes! 

Get your cameras out...!

The past two days consisted of some pretty intensive but rewarding chimpanzee trekking. Most of our guests had to put in some proper effort to get up close to these Great Apes.

But this morning four fantastic chimpanzees decided we had done enough effort for now. Not only did they come two visit us in Greystoke Camp, they brought with them two of their amazing juveniles.

Hanging out in the Ficus Golomasa tree that is overlooking part of the office, these four chimps sampled the little fruits that it starts bearing now. Curious as these two new borns were, their mothers laid and rested at some of the bigger branches.

Look at these guys! What a perfect glimps into the season that is ahead of us!

A new place, a new start!

Changing homes from the beautiful north Serengeti plains to the stunning Mahale Mountain range is a luxurious treat. We are so happy to be back in the mountains again but still have our feet close to the water. 

And what kind of a water that is...

That lake Tanganyika would be awesome we knew from the moment we heard about it. But that the lake offers such a true paradise we could have never imagined!

As we made our way down on a 13 hour boat ride, we had a ll the time in the world to get used to our new and immediate neighbour. Crystal clear, over 670 km in length - this is going to be a growing relationship.

And a serious and fun challenge!

Our last guests of the season.

Our last guests have departed and Greystoke is closed for another season. Kiri and I are proud of our 100% record in that every guest who has walked to try and see the Chimpanzees has at least seen them once. We have had several guests that never actually left the camp and this happened with a couple of guests in our last group. When guests are unable to walk in Mahale’s mountainous forest environment we do have a couple of tricks up our sleeve. Back in the 1960’s the Japanese researchers habituated the Chimps by feeding them sugar Cain, when it was feeding time they would beat several drums to attract the Chimps to the feeding station. A Chimpanzees memory is amazing and several members of the community where youngsters in 1965 and remember the drums and the sweet sugar Cain. On the last night of the season the drums were going until midnight. Unfortunately, the next morning, no Chimpanzee’s, sadly some guests left without seeing a Chimpanzee. However, the morning after, Kiri and I were woken at first light by Chimpanzees screaming behind our room, as I scrambled out of bed and ran up the path several Chimps disappeared into the forest. I turned around and right behind me was Michio and Teddy bringing up the rear of the group as per usual. Michio was 15 when we arrived 2 years ago, he was sick, skinny and constantly picked on by the alpha male, Pimu. What a difference 2 years have made, he is now a big confident male slowly working his way up the ranks.

Michio almost 2 years ago.

Michio's distinct drooping lower lip may be a nervous habit picked up due to his difficult teenage years.

Now 17.

The Little Beauties of Mahale

It is selfish indeed to claim that one month at Greystoke is not enough time in Mahale, considering that most visitors stay for three or four days.  Still, it is hard to escape the feeling that we are just beginning to scratch the surface of this spectacular forest.
 

 

Chimps do steal the show here, without question and with very good reason.  It could certainly be argued that they are the keystone species of Mahale Mountains National Park.  Protecting their habitat protects myriad other species too.

Steve and Kiri are on the dhow, heading south from the airstrip.  Any moment now we'll meet them on the beach to welcome them back home.  Lake Tanganyika is exquisite today.  Til next time...

Two Faces of Mahale

 

While mornings spent in the forest tracking chimps can put some sweat on your brow, a Greystoke afternoon exudes relaxation.  Even the wildlife is chilled here.  This lovely little lady warthog has decided she is one of the guests, often wandering through the lodge.

 

Even Alofu showed up to eat from the tree beside Room 5, then sauntered into the forest and sat in the perfect patch of sunlight, just before sunset.  The joke of the day was how tired people were after a morning with chimps high on the forested hills, only to have another excellent sighting right under our noses later on.

 

Having enjoyed a moment in the spotlight, and not to be outdone, the pigs put on a show to cap off the day.  Their message was clear, "Look at chimps in the morning.  Afternoons are ours."